Törggelen at Hohenwart: chestnuts, Sußer and autumn sunshine

By afternoon, the autumn sun sits a little lower over the hills of Merano and environs, bathing Hohenwart’s terrace in golden light. Its gentle warmth invites you to sit down and linger. Nearby, an open fire crackles softly.

Above the embers, a perforated cast-iron chestnut pan swings steadily back and forth. The shells darken and a few split open with a delicate crack. Once roasted, the chestnuts are tipped into a Kestnriggl, a basket woven from hazel branches, and shaken vigorously until the hot chestnuts slip free of their shells.

Alongside them, we serve a glass of fresh grape must, glowing ruby red and known locally as Sußer. It comes straight from our family vineyard here in Schenna. Soaking up the afternoon sun, nibbling warm, freshly roasted chestnuts and sipping the sweet Sußer – this is what autumn at Hohenwart feels like.

A custom born in the vineyard

On selected autumn afternoons, this tradition becomes part of our Marende, the South Tyrolean custom of gathering over an afternoon spread. Its roots reach deep into the region’s farming culture. Törggelen itself is closely linked to the grape harvest.

Once the grapes had been picked and pressed in the wooden wine press known as a Torggl, farmers, harvest hands and neighbours would gather. Together, they celebrated the year’s harvest, sampled the still-sweet grape must as it began to ferment and gave thanks for the work they had shared.

Over time, this simple tasting grew into a feast to be shared. What began as a few small bites evolved into the Törggelen menu we know today. Barley soup, Schlutzkrapfen – South Tyrolean filled pasta – or dumplings usually come first, followed by homemade sausages, pork ribs, salt-cured pork, sauerkraut and other hearty farmhouse dishes. Sweet Krapfen pastries and roasted chestnuts bring the meal to a close. What is served varies from farm to farm.