The Merano Arcades: 800 years of history, shopping and good food
For around 800 years, the Merano Arcades have linked Piazza del Grano with Piazza Duomo in the heart of Merano’s old town. The roughly 400-metre-long Via Portici was laid out as a trading route under Meinhard II in the 13th century and is regarded as the longest arcaded shopping street in Europe. Beneath its arches, shops, small cafés, restaurants and long-established local businesses still sit side by side.
The arcades are much more than a historic backdrop. They remain a lively part of the town, where people shop, meet for coffee or pause in front of a window display. Above the arches, oriel windows, frescoes and historic façades tell the story of Merano’s transformation from a medieval trading town into an elegant spa town.
This piece of Merano’s history is just a few kilometres from Hotel Hohenwart in Schenna.
A trading street dating back to the 13th century
The history of the Merano Arcades begins in the 13th century. During the reign of Meinhard II, Count of Tyrol, a new trading street was laid out between Piazza del Grano and Piazza Duomo, helping Merano grow into an important economic and commercial centre. Merchants had been selling their wares here since at least the 14th century.
According to legend, Meinhard II even ordered the Merano Arcades to be at least one hundred metres longer than those in Bolzano. Whether this reflects genuine medieval ambition or is simply a story that arose later is impossible to say with certainty today.
Over the centuries, the buildings lining the street were repeatedly altered. They were extended, joined together and made taller. It is said that they eventually grew so high that they blocked the view of the clocks on the Parish Church of St Nicholas. New clock faces therefore had to be placed higher up the tower.
Via Portici ran uninterrupted until 1913. It was only divided when the present-day junction of Via Cassa di Risparmio and Via Galilei was created. Its role barely changed: people continued to trade and shop beneath the arches while catching up on the latest news from around town.
The mountain arcades and the water arcades
Via Portici consists of two rows of buildings facing one another. The side facing Küchelberg hill is known as the mountain arcades, while the side towards the River Passer is called the water arcades. A narrow, gently sloping street runs between them.
This simple distinction preserves a little of the town’s historic geography. Today, anyone crossing from one side to the other is more likely to notice the window displays than the mountain or the river. Even so, it is worth looking up: Gothic features sit alongside Baroque oriel windows, ornate stucco work, frescoes and Neoclassical façades. Old gateways open into courtyards and narrow passageways, offering unexpected glimpses inside the buildings.
The low arches provide shade in summer and shelter from the rain. Eight centuries on, this is still one of the things that makes strolling here so pleasant. The architecture is as practical as it is beautiful.
At the upper end, the street opens onto Piazza Duomo and the Parish Church of St Nicholas. Behind the church lies the Steinach quarter, the oldest part of Merano. At the lower end, the arcades lead to Piazza del Grano and onwards towards Via delle Corse and the River Passer. To this day, they connect not only two squares, but different parts of the town.
Shopping beneath the Merano Arcades
Today, the Merano Arcades are the best-known shopping street in the old town. International brands sit alongside small boutiques, long-established specialist shops and family-run businesses. Fashion, jewellery, shoes, books, fine foods and South Tyrolean crafts can all be found beneath the same arches.
This mix is what makes shopping here so enjoyable. Some people arrive with a carefully prepared list, while others simply browse and see what catches their eye. The arcades suit both approaches.
Our host Mrs Christine knows Merano’s shops like the back of her hand. Her personal favourites include:
Luis Trenker: Alpine tradition meets a relaxed, contemporary look. An excellent place for high-quality pieces that reflect their South Tyrolean roots without looking like traditional costume.
Be More: Here you will find easy-to-wear contemporary fashion for everyday life and leisure. The selection is ideal for anyone who appreciates relaxed styles and modern cuts.
Boutique Kathinka: A destination for feminine fashion, distinctive details and carefully selected pieces. The personally curated range stands apart from the large fashion chains.
Oberrauch Zitt: Elegant womenswear, classic cuts and high-quality fabrics take centre stage here. Mrs Christine particularly recommends the shop for stylish everyday wear and special occasions.
Porticos: The shop offers modern menswear, accessories and distinctive designs. A worthwhile stop for men who appreciate thoughtfully selected pieces.
These recommendations also show just how varied the arcades are. New styles and ideas have found a home within their historic walls, while long-established shops just a few doors away remain firmly rooted in everyday life in Merano.
Gelato, wine and favourite places in the old town
Sooner or later, an afternoon in the arcades calls for a little break. There is no shortage of places to choose from, both along the historic street and just around the corner.
For gelato, head to the Merano gelaterias Sabine or Seta. Both serve popular classics alongside creative and seasonal flavours. A cone is also a remarkably practical choice when you want to keep strolling.
If you would rather round off the day with a glass of South Tyrolean wine, the City.Vinothek at Kellerei Meran offers a carefully curated selection from the region. The contemporary wine bar brings the wines and wine culture of Merano and its surroundings into the heart of town. It is equally suited to a tasting or a quiet aperitif.
For a meal, Mrs Christine recommends Restaurant Sigmund, where South Tyrolean cooking meets contemporary influences. If you are in the mood for pizza, Pizzeria Relax is among her personal favourites: informal, welcoming and a dependable choice for a good Italian pizza.
Another tip worth remembering is L’insalatina Saladbar. This small restaurant is tucked away down a passage just off the arcades. On its sunny terrace, it serves vegan specialities, fresh smoothies and cappuccinos made with oat milk. It is easy to miss on a stroll through the old town, which is all the more reason to remember the name.
When to visit the Merano Arcades
The Merano Arcades can be visited at any time of year. During the day, the shops set the pace. Saturday mornings and rainy days tend to be especially lively. As evening approaches, the shopping street becomes more of a meeting place. Light from the shop windows falls across the paving stones, the cafés and restaurants begin to fill and the old arches become the setting for an aperitif or dinner.
From Piazza del Grano, Via Portici climbs gently beneath the arches towards Piazza Duomo and the Parish Church of St Nicholas. The route is also suitable for pushchairs and wheelchairs. If you prefer to walk gently downhill, begin at Piazza Duomo and head towards Piazza del Grano.
Our Hohenwart tip for an afternoon in Merano
No holiday at Hohenwart is complete without a visit to the Merano Arcades. If you enjoy walking, follow the sunny Mitterplattweg through vineyards and apple orchards to Maia Alta before continuing into Merano’s old town.
We recommend beginning at Piazza Duomo. Before heading through the arcades, take a short stroll behind the parish church through the peaceful Steinach quarter. Then follow Via Portici between its mountain and water arcades to Piazza del Grano, leaving plenty of time to browse the shops and stop for coffee. From there, Via delle Corse leads to the Passer Promenade.
For us, there is no better way to end an afternoon in town than with a walk beside the water. Stroll along the promenade, admire the flowerbeds as they change with the seasons, or settle on a bench, watch the River Passer flow by and enjoy the sunshine.
For the return journey to Schenna, take bus 231 from the Terme stop. The journey is free with the South Tyrol Guest Pass.
The place that lasts.